Bitlocker Drive Prepartion Tool

In the early days of Windows Vista. Bitlocker is so much work, most people will give up before completing it (and end up with a corrupted HDD maybe). The problem IS (yes, still there because Microsoft has not really address it) nobody told you how the HDD should be properly partitioned for Bitlocker. This was not even mentioned in the Windows Vista installation. You will only come to realized this after fully installed and you tried to enable Bitlocker. Back then, the only answer (unless you ahve Partition Magic, Partition Manager etc) wil lbe to reformat you Windows Vista and restart.

The ideal installation should consist of these (to be politically correct, I lifted these from Microsoft) :

1. Have at least two partitions. One partition must include the drive Windows is installed on. This is the drive that BitLocker will encrypt. The other partition is the active partition, which must remain unencrypted so that the computer can be started. Once you've encrypted the drive Windows is installed on, you can also encrypt additional data drives on the same computer.
2. Be formatted with the NTFS file system.
3. Have a BIOS that is compatible with TPM and supports USB devices during computer startup. If this is not the case, you will need to update the BIOS before using BitLocker. For more information on updating your BIOS, see Update the BIOS for BitLocker Drive Encryption.

Take note of point 3. Thats hardware limitation. Most laptop can do it. If yours can't and it says Vista Ultimate compatible, sue them.

Now, let's talk about present day. There is hope. Just download something known as Bitlocker Drive Prepartion Tool. It will shift you partition and create the additional partition required for Bitlocker. You can either split or merge to make the space. This tool handles it pretty well. After a reboot, you will be ready to enable it. Make sure you follow the steps to save BOTH the key and the recovery key. Make copies of it in as many places as possible and stored them security. Storing it with your dog, for example, will not be "securely".

So, here is the full details and how you can get the tool. Basically, Windows Update :
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/930063

Rice Store At Bukit Timah Plaza

I had to make a trip to Bukit Timah Plaza which is located out in nowhere a few weeks ago. My primary reason was to pick up some hamster supplies there. However, beside than what I wanted, I found something else. There is this "food court" right at the corner. There is only a few store and I ordered Cha Siew Rice with added rice. Guess what? No extra charges. $2.50 straight. And they gave me 1 full bowl of extra rice.

The rice is brownish... emm, my fear is that it doesn't not taste good. Luckily I only order 1 bowl to share with J. Well, I order another again later. It was fantastic. Like nothing you had taken before. They had a special way to prepare it and it is really good. The soup was ok, better than most place, but not fantastic. The Cha Siew was good. Cantonese style, not much fat. The Roast Pork was great too. The skin still crispy at 4pm.

However, for $2.50. I ate until I am full. J was full. We did not have a proper lunch due to travel, but this certainly finished our dinner as well.

Facebook Security - Limited Profile and Privacy

Ok, instead of writing a formal paper and publish it, I prefer to do this here at my blog. Facebook greatest secret by far is how to properly configure it so that it protects your privacy. I had seen many badly designed GUI and this is not one of them, but yet the GUI does not allow you to find what you want to do easily. Could this be a defact by design?


What I am going to talk about here is what will make Facebook safer. But by no means safe. Because there are still some loopholes here and there for social engineers. My advice would be if you do not need to tell anyone something, do not put them there in Facebook. That would be a better security then using the Facebook function to hide them.

First off, there is limited profile. One way or another, you may or may not have it set up. In this article, lets presume Facebook did not set it up properly for you.

Settting up a Limited Profile Friend List:

1. From main menu, go to Friends Tab.
2. Under Friend Lists on the right, see if you have Limited Profile. If so, you can skip this rest of this section.
3. If not, click Make a New List
4. Name it Limited Profile

You have created your limited profile. While we are here, lets go through the confusing steps to add a friend to the Limited Profile before we move on.

Adding friend to Limited Profile:

1. Click on Limited Profile under Friend Lists on the right.
2. Click on Everyone tab (if not highlighted) on the left.
3. You can see a list of friends in your Limited Profile now if you have any.
4. Type in name or click Select Multiple Friends beside the search box to add them.

Now you have someone inside (you should add at least 1 to test out) the Limited Profile, but if you actually surf and try you will not see any difference at all. This is the stage where most people scream that Limited Profiles does not work! What's the point?

OK, to solve this, we need to actually make Limited Profile different. How? It's time to edit your privacy.

Defining Limited Profile:

1. Go to privacy on the top right.
2. Select Profile.
3. You will see a lot of boxes and mostly they will be set to Only Friend (I hope). but that is not the setting we want either.
4. Choose one box and select Customize from the list. You can't do it with the first box label Profile though.
5. You should see a screen like this below.
6. You will need to use the Except These People box. I suggest you set most of the option (if not all) to Friends Only. This is true especially for the network settings. If you join a "OI hate linux" network, its fun but you probably doesn't want everyone in the network to see your information. Set it to no information for network.
7. Then type in Limited Profile into the Except These People box.
8. Click Okay. You should end up with something like the following:
9. Do this for both your Basic and Contact Information tab.

Now, if you go and view your profile through a Limited Profile friend, you will see that the information you chosen are not hidden. This is how the Limited Profile should be configured.

By now, you will realized that Limited Profile is actually just a list. You can call it ABC for all I care. You can create more list and set then in the same way too, giving each of them some differences. For example, you may not want your colledge to know your work history, but allow them to see your contact number etc...

Next step, lets move on to blocking people. I love this one. There are many myth about how you can block people especially those whom are not even your friend. I had issue with this too maybe due to the API... It does not find the user using the search at all. Anyway, here are the instructions.

Blocking user:

1. Go to privacy on the top right.
2. At the bottom right, you should see this.
3. Now you will need to enter the full name of the person you wish to block. The limitation however is if you cannot find the user, you cannot block the user.
4. If you find the user, just click Block Person on the right of his profile and you are done. If not, I suggest you try finding a few times. It took me a while to find some people.
5. After blocking them, go back to privacy and you should see them on the Block List like the picture above(ok, without the mozaic).

So, we settled the human issue. What about apps? Some apps might be taking information away from Facebook just because I installed it. My advice is, do not install any application that ask for excessive information. If you are playing a flash game and it ask for you credit card, thats definitely something wrong with it. However, you can control some of it here.

Limiting Applications:

1. Go to privacy on the top right.
2. Select Application.
3. You should see a list of application you trust. This list better be good. Remove any suspicious ones immediately from here.
4. Click on the Other Application tab.
5. You should read through the wordly page, but the meat is as shown below.
6. My advice would be to disable all options here. I find very little reasons I would want to share information out to applications.

Now, that settles the applications settings.

Despite all the above settings I recommened, the best security is still up to you. Always play safe and do not enter or reveal unnecessary information on Facebook. also know that some information can be leakedthrough your friends as well, so keep them up to date and advice them to "harden" their Facebook settings.

Have a great time playing games and joining networks in Facebook without losing your job!

PSP 3.90M33-3 released

3.90M33-3 is out. All you need to do is to extract to /PSP/GAME/ and then just run the update, reboot and you are good. Of course, make sure you are on 3.90M33 (doesn't matter 3.90M33-1 or 3.90M33-2) first. If not, read my previous post to upgrade to 3.90M33 before going ahead with this.

Changes:
- March33 noumd driver compatibiilty has increased to support games like Coded Arms, Patapon, Harvest Moon Innocent Life and probably others affected by same errors.

Download :
http://rapidshare.com/files/105323033/390M33-3.rar

Enable Vista Bitlocker Today!

Before there was BitLocker Drive Preparation Tool, life was hell with Bitlocker. Its only after installation of Vista completed you release that the only way to enable Bitlocker was to format and reinstall. Well, BS or not, those days are gone. Actually you can technically do some tricks using partioning software and copying files in protected mode...

Anyway, with BitLocker Drive Preparation Tool now, all you need to is to run through the wizard and it will merge or split up a 1.5GB free space for Bitlocker. If you dun use TPM, you need 1 more step to edit the Global Policy. After that, reboot and you can enable Bitlocker. Its also wizard based helping you make your keys and print your recovery codes.

So, what are you waiting for? Wait, before rushing in, do a full backup. JIC.

BitLocker Drive Preparation Tool :
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/930063

Bitlocker

Ever saw this screen? Ever tried to tear out the HDD from this laptop and only find a 1.5GB partition oj junk and other partition totally worthless? This is what you had been paying for if you are using Microsoft Windows Vista Ultimate and Enterprise. This is Bitlocker.

Encryption is nothing new. Bitlocker uses AES and AES is nothing new either. WPA2 uses AES (as one of the mode or THIP as the other). Its reasonably tested. Bitlocker uses a 2nd authentication other than your regular password. It can be TPM which some laptop comes with (for a high price) and almost nobody knows what its all about or a simple USB pen drive.

Now, using a USB token is nothing new either. PGP has already got USB token. The main differences is this. Bitlocker uses ANY USB pen drive or USB media. It can be a flash card or a USB HDD as long as your BIOS can regconize it at boot time. Now thats now hard to find nowadays. My desktop regconise all my USB devices including mouses, keyboards etc. Of course, Bitlocker is not suitable for desktop, at least not in the common sense.

Before I proceed, here are some good link as to what is Bitlocker about :

Schneier on Security: Microsoft's BitLocker

http://channel9.msdn.com/Showpost.aspx?postid=214558

And apparently, the only know issue with Bitlocker (in theroey since it applied to Mac only) :

http://www.news.com/2300-1029_3-6230933-1.html

Now, I would say its relatively safe to use. Only issue is that you are not suppose to keep your pen drive with your laptop. Thats wil lalso makes the TPM (without password) looks silly since its together with the laptop. It might be a good idea to get one of those ultra thin and ultra fast pen drive which you may double as your Vista ReadyBoost drive. This you can keep seperate from your laptop.

Receovery may be an issue, but I seriously doubt it. There is a post saying that if you motherboard fries and you changed one, it automatically disvalidates your Vista. Firstly I disagree. you will be forced to activate your Vista. that's true, but unless the version inside is reinstalled as some other version, its is still Vista Ultimate but unvalidated. Welcome unless some really made that happens, I kinda believe this is urban legend.

By now you should be able to tell that its quite pointless to use this on a Desktop, althought nobody can stop you. Microsoft claims a 1-9% CPU load only, but its still a drag and for desktop, the chance of it getting stolen is much much reduced.

Whatever the situation is, as long as you safekeep and backup your key and recovery keys, I guess you are in good shape. the only thing this doesn't prevent is you losing your laptop. :)

In the next post, I will introduce some way to install Bitlocker. Trust me, its so much easier now than compared with trying it in RC2.

Antivirus on WHS

Before I got down to solving the defrag issue, I started to embark on another issue on WHS. Antivirus. Do you need it?

Let me point out one side of the story first. WHS is a file server. You DO NOT execute software on it (except updates, patches etc). You do not open your files on it. Therefore save yourself some money. As long as you have client antivirus, everything you transfer in and out of WHS was checked at one point or another. Thats one arguement. I do not want to say this is right or wrong.

Let's takea look at the other side of the story. WHS is essentially Windows Server 2003 R2 (SBS Edition). Lets consider the following :

1. WHS is connected to the internet. Otherwise whats the point of "accessing it anywhere".
2. WHS is subjectable to server vulnerabilities similar to WS2003.
3. WHS requires patching. Some patches can be delivered automatically, others have to be manually put in. Therefore you need to execute some form of software once in a while.
4. WHS has software running in the background which arefrom 3rd party and can be subjected to infection. Especially if you have chosen to download it from untrusted sources.
5. You network firewall (if you have one) or router will not protect you from malware in general. If you do, you are pretty rich, I guess :P
6. Non of the default malware (if any) such as Window defender etc works on WHS. In short, you are short of arsenal against malware.
7. WHS can be attacked and WILL be attacked. If you do not believe me, look at your log in verbose mode.
8. Are you pretty sure your WHS is 100% free of trojans, spyware etc? Remember the point where you needed to have some software on your WHS and you actually launched IE to download them. Ok, maybe not cos in the default lockdown mode, you will get annoyed within 30 seconds. Mayeb you installed firefox? Now, thats a evil way to use Firefox. :) Back to the point, you probably downloaded something with it. Scan it with Spybot or Spyware Terminator and you will know the answer.
9. Do you want to risk corrupting (please dun even bring up the MS bug...) due to malware? Do you want to have unrestorable backup or unopenable files after investing so much on WHS? If you do, you should go ahead and get linux. Its cheap and probably not worth the effort protection. :)
10. Do you want someone else not on your list to access all your naked photo (of your pets) and other previous moments (with your family) all over yourtube and photosharing portal? Or your latest resume with your boss and payslip all over IRS?
11. Do you want to use the restore disk soon? Lost all your data?

In short, I sided with the 2nd camp. I believe whatever reasons it may be some form of antivirus is required. While it's not as critical as a real commercial server, you probably still want to put in some form of antivirus (of a suitable value) to protect it.

I would want to put a deeper discussion on another post, but lets run through some choice here first. ClamWin (free) is one which requires $0 but its a on demand scanner with no active component. Avast WHS edition is the only WHS "certified" antivirus of date. avast has already processed my request for an extended trial for this purpose. There are many others.

While I do not want to criticize a certain brand, I feel its fair to mentioned that its all due to my faut for trying to "hack" it to work. I tried Eset Business Suite. Its an excellent antivirus for server, but not for WHS. The firewall totally screwed up my WHS. To get it to work, I almost had to tear it down to minimum (which is probably not worth the money you pay for now).

OK, I will come back to this again when I have more concrete testing results.

Xiao P House Upgrade

Added the additional level also from AB. Fits perfectly giving Xiao P one more level to keep his stuff and play around. I had to change the tube though. It appears they are designed for robo only... But I am really happy it all works out. I haven't decided what to put in the extra spaces yet though.

PerfectDisk 2008 for WHS Build 48

I had been trying out both Perfectdisk and Diskeeper some time back on my WHS. So far, Perfectdisk has an edge because it was able to install. Somehow for me, the trial of Diskeeper ends up with :

“Product: Diskeeper 2008 HomeServer — This edition of Diskeeper is not supported on this version of Windows. See the Table of Editions in the Diskeeper Readme.txt file for a list of supported operating systems. Setup will now exit.”

So, I guess I can only try out Perfectdisk for now. Although someone from Diskeeper did leave a comment, I probably check it out later on. Maybe they might be able to help me resolve this issue.

Perfectdisk on the other hand has made an improvement which I only knew 5 minutes ago from their email. The have finally integrated the GUI into Home Server Console. I guess thats a good point to go.

Ok, this is what it looks like when you use your Home Server Console to connect to it. Notice something? Yes, there is a C:\ and a C:\fs\4... Emm, thats must be whats so different for this version of WHS. Well, for me it works so far so good.

But whether does this seriously addresses the 4k cluster issue and VSS, that I need time to confirm. I should note that on a thread I recently read, VSS is not suppose to work on WHS in terms of storing previous versions. However, I am dead sure I had to VSS is enabled on the WHS. Well, maybe I am just confused for now. I will follow on this.

Microsoft Habu Again

Some time back, I was hit by the Habu cable problem. So I called Microsoft and despite I won this in a contest and was not able to produce a receipt, they are kind enough to work this out for me and I was given a replacement.

Search "Habu Cable Problem" or :

http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.asp?m=103808&mpage=1&key=&

Apparently, there are some things they could had iron out, but whatever the case, Microsoft still get a 5 stars from me for the excellent replacement. They even got it deliver y to my place in person (because they do not have a service center here). So, do not think that the 3 years warranty on your Microsoft Product is BS. Its not, when you needed the warranty.

R4 NDS V1.17

Its only been 1 month and V1.17 is released.

The changes :
Update R4 v1.17 kernel 2008-3-18
1）Solved the brightness problem after soft-resetting
2）Solved 2107 the "Thanks" problem
3）Solved 2110 problem

I had a repack as usual for this. This package includes the user codes from Datel Action Replay for EU and US codes up to 24 March 2008.

Download now :
http://rapidshare.com/files/101939850/R4-1.17.RAR

CWCheat 0.2.2

Ok, to cut down on the download size, I had decide to totally ripped this one and only include the upgrade from previous version for hte PSP Slim. But on top of that, I throw in the updated DB as of today (24 Mar 2008).

Installation is simple as before, grab the file, extract all to your /seplugins/ directory. Well, only exception is that if you have more plugins such as the USBSlimCharge etc, you should not overwrites the 3 TXT files, but edit them manually.

I had decide to drop the POP Cheat DB from future release as well unless its updated. Its been like Sep 07 till now and its wasting 2.5MB of space in each release.

So here you have it :
http://rapidshare.com/files/101923515/CWCheat022.zip

Goodbye U3

U3 is a really powerful tool for carrying around your stuff on the move in your USb stick. Yes, on your face again. It doesn't work with mac or linux. That beside the point, U3 boost security enhancement by not leaving cache, passwords etc on the system. That I do not debate. However, this sword is sharp both ends. U3 is actually capable of reaping off information from the host system! Surprise? Check out U3 Switchblade.

U3 Switchblade :
http://wiki.hak5.org/wiki/USB_Switchblade

This is not even news as it has been around for a long time. Basically, when you insert the U3 stick, you will need to allow it to execute (at admin prviledge) in order for it to start launch pad or mount the protected partition. However, if you think the U3 launchpad and base core is protected, you are wrong. Its basically a part of the firmware and can be rewritten. What can you change? emm, how about a quick capture of passwords hashes to use with your Ophcrack, or all the serials number of your M$ product dumped (heck,s its not too long to dump the whole software branch of the registry anyway). OF course, it up to you to imagine. Just edit the image and inject your payload and flash it back into you U3. Yes, you probably want to run the original U3 launch pad at the end too...

Then insert into victims computer and ya, if you did it well, no prompt, nothing... It just run silently and grab everything need to be placed onto the USb stick. Well, its not foolproof of course. Certain antivirus software are capable of grabbing these. OneCare, Kaspersky and other behaviour detection engines based software will alert if you try to touch some registry or scan network for example.

Well, this article is not tell you not to use U3. But be aware when someone else passed you a U3 stick and ask you to mount it in the future. You do not need to even run the U3 Launch pad actually if the U3 Stick is not protected by a password. Just ignore all autoruns and you are much safer.

Don't judge yet...

Well, what can I say, don't judge a book by its cover (too quickly)...

ReadyBoost - Swapfile on Steriods

Yes, lets finally talk about a Vista feature which is so never talked about. I am sure you have come across the word ReadyBoost or ReadyDisk. The only difference is just the media, one is a flash drive, the other is a damn fast HDD (like the raptor).

I wouldn't want to conduct a test again since there are tons out there. See these :
http://www.anandtech.com/systems/showdoc.aspx?i=2917&p=6

There are more, but I find this report realisitic. Now, my side of the story. A cheap Flashdrive 4GB at $30+. With my PC max to 3GB (4GB won't work in 32bits OS), is there anything else to boost performance? Yes, there is and its cheap. I got this un-certified for ReadyBoost stick and plug it in and guess what? It's fast enough for ReadyBoost. Since its cheap, I just put all the 4GB into ReadyBoost. the recommendation however is to match you memory. 3GB to 3GB of ReadyBoost, just similar to swap files.

Before I go on, I know some people will think this is cheaper than putting in 4GB of RAM. Well, that is correct as far as cheaper is concerned. But its not FASTER. ReadyBoost is more like putting the swap file onto flash disk. Flash disk have much much more performance and power in random seek compare to HDD. Moreover, for thoseo f you who does not have the technology to defrag your swap file, ReadyBoost will ready make the swap file look bad. Therefore you will have a significant boost in performance.

Now, for myself, bootup improved a bit, but not much. However opening and closing applications and games, well, that is the part that kick ass. And guess what I heard its not even properly optimized. After installing Vista SP1, you will kick asses a lot harder. :)

so, its really good (and cheap) to upgrade and push your day to day performance (yes, not talking about 3DMark or just to win in benchmark scenario). However, for the crazy and the zeolets, let me say this, the choice of your stick determines how much harder your kicking is (on the ass). By far, I had seen (with my own eyes) that fastest being Umbrella's (sorry, I mean Sony's) Micro Vault Turbo with Read/Write 26/19Mbps. Its a freaky $90 here for the 4GB, comparing to other cheaper ones such as the one I got for $32. Of course, for the zeolets, there is
OCZ's ATV Turbo USB 2.0 which is 35/30Mbps anytime (which I found cheapest USD$67).

Sony's Micro Vault Turbo 4G
http://www.sony.com.sg/product/usm4gjx/sku/usm4gjx%2B%2B%2B%2B%2Be?site=hp_en_SG_i

OCZ's ATV Turbo USB 2.0
http://www.ocztechnology.com/products/flash_drives/ocz_atv_turbo_usb_2_0_flash_drive

And last thing, if you are using Mac, TOO BAD. If you are using Linux, TOO BAD + Does USB even works for you?

Here is a list of user review ReadyBoost devices :
http://www.grantgibson.co.uk/misc/readyboost/

Cool Blue to Evil Red - The switch to the dark side

I am surprised that during the 80s, show were so stereotype. The good guys always uses the blue laser, and the bad guys the red in almost all the sci fi movie I can name. But today, I find the evil red looks cool. See for yourself :

This mouse has some functions that seriously make hte habu looks bad, like Quick Turn, which allows you to calibrate and turn 180 degrees in your FPS, looking behind and back is just 1 click away. For FPS, this mouse also has on-the-fly Precision Booster which allows you to zoom in with high precision when using a sniper rifle. The mouse also feature custom weights so that you can adjust until you love hte weight on the mouse. Cool? There is a on the fly dpi changer with 3 adjustable settings. This has pro and con with Habu's dpi up/down switch. This also comes with a angler to weight down the execessive cables so that it does get in your way when you are trying to do quick movements with your mouse.

See more at :
http://www.microsoft.com/hardware/gaming/productdetails.aspx?pid=100

Well, the down side is this mouse is not for everyone. The size and shape is one thing. some people just can't reach the button based on they way they hold the mouse. For me, its just nice. The connector is not 24k gold. Also this is not from Razor, but Microsoft. So if put together with the Reclusa, it a clear contrast of Cool Blue vs Evil Red there... Maybe Microsoft will reveal a Evil Red Keyboard soon?

Warhammer 40K Dawn of War Soulstorme MP Race Enabler

Ok, finally its time to remove Dark Crusade and leave only Soulstorm in there. However, you will realized that in Multiplayer you can only play Dark Eldars or Sisters of Battle. To have the rest of the race, you just have to install the following :

http://rapidshare.com/files/99175721/W40K_DOW_Soulstorm_MP_Enabler.exe

I stress again that you will still need to have legit version of Dawn of War, Winter Assault and Dark Crusade forthe CD-KEY. This software will not give you keys for that. It just helps you save some space by removing those software away.

If you uninstall Soulstorm someday, just uninstall this software as well to remove away the keys and extra files it has placed in your computer.

Configure Backup Disabled on Windows Home Server

OK, maybe its just me, but here is another trick for anyone else who has this problem. OK, you added another machine. The tray icon turns red because you have not configure Backup for this. You open the Home Connector software and under Computer and Backup, you see your server. Right Click to configure it and WTF, the options are all greyed out!

Why? I did not waste time to figure it out. I just tried to solve it. With many way from the client side: restarting the Home Connector Software, restarting the client OS, disconnect and reconnect it from the Network etc. I almost wanted to reset my months running router. Then I found the solution. Here is what you do.

Use Remote Desktop into your SERVER. Launch the Home Connector Software on the Server. And yes, yes! The options are not greyed out. Its enabled. Just do it!

Thats solve this issue. There is also a similar issue when I experience the backup was skipped and I did a manual backup. However, the status still says it hasn't been backup in the last 6 days. I did the same thing on the server and instantly it was updated with the status that all backup was done.

What happened? Maybe Microsoft will have an answer, but I do not think many people has this same problem here. Maybe its just me, or just Microsoft OneCare... :)

Windows Home Server Connector Installlation Problem

I had seen lots of post detailing how to solve the problem of installing this software. Especially the part where it cannot find the WHS. I have a totally unorthodox way to do it, yeet it works for me.

First do make sure you can ping you WHS, otherwise, it definitely a network problem and not related to the software for you.

When you get to the part it say unknown error occurs, cannot find WHS etc, call up your Task Manager. Look for a few msiexec.exe file under Processes. Make sure you are not installing anything else at this same time. Kill them. If you are lucky, kill one and the rest falls.

Now, under the Applications tab, kill the Windows Home Server Connector software. It may ask you to Exit or something, do that will do as well.

What actually happens? IF you did not kill msiexec.exe, it will remove the software (rollback) when you exit the connector installation. But since its dead, the software stay. If you are lucky, it already running with a green icon on tray now when you exit. Totally working. If not just start it from Start Menu.

My conclusion is that somehow the detection during the installation is kinda screwed up. It works for many PC I tried. It justed work, even though the installation say it can't find the server. Hopes this helps.

Windows Home Server Super Pack 1

Ok, this is just a fancy name I give to the WHS for those additional hardware I put in. Here is the list :

Enlight AIO Card Reader $16
Exhaust Fan $5
HDD Cooler Dual Fan 2x$10=$20 (One for each HDD)
3.5" Floppy Drive Black $12
Sony/Liteon DVD Writer 16x $40
Acebel 470W High Efficiency Power $72
SIS 1GB DDR2-800 RAM $34 (I added it to 2GB for performance)

That bring a total of $199. Well over my original $800 Budget :P. Consider the throw in of WHS Software which is about $250, that will being the whole box cost slightly over $1.1k. Well, is this worth it? Sure. It has much better hardware and more flexibility than the OEM. Imagine the OEM box you will buy has only 1x500GB HDD at $1.2k+ and without some of the stuff above. What do you think?

However, this is because I am greedy. If you stick to the basic pack, there is no reason you will exceed $800 in hardware. In fact I paid a little more on some of the stuff above because it makes me feel good. :)

Well, Enter UNICRON!